efog-blog
Rotherhithe Walk, 21st January 2012
A goodly crowd of 18 EFOGers met at Canada Water to walk around the once hectic dock-filled area of Rotherhithe. The object was to look for reminders of the area’s history in a very modern, urban landscape. We found the lives of the dockers and seafarers celebrated in shopping centre murals, information displays, statues, building and street names but, perhaps most effectively, in the seafaring paraphernalia embedded in the streets: cobbles, chains, capstans, parts of hydraulic machinery, swing bridges, cranes and metal tracks.
Walking by Greenland DockWe walked by Greenland Dock (still there) which was once one of the largest docks in the world and twice the size it is now. Before going on to Surrey Dock we passed The Moby Dick pub with its echoes of a time when industries which produced lighting, soap, corsets and umbrellas were supported by whaling.
We lunched in Surrey Dock Farm where there was a demonstration of a blacksmith’s skills as well as goats, pigs and turkeys. No one bought a ferret (but they could have done). Katie was allowed in on a lead and was her usual well behaved self. The food was a bit pricey but good. I still wish I’d succumbed to the temptation of the lemon cake! Peter stop gloating!
After lunch we carried on, passing more former shipyards, dock areas and warehouses, including one at Kings and Queens Wharf, built by French prisoners during the Napoleonic Wars. We saw a tiny looking fire station, once one of London’s busiest (built 1903 and closed in 1965). Like most of the original “restored” buildings in the area, this has been converted into urban residential accommodation, set in a cityscape bordering The Thames.
We went on to explore the outside of the Pump House Museum and its nature reserve (one of quite a few on the walk). The Museum would be worth a visit, but has limited opening times. The nature reserves were good to see but would be more attractive perhaps when the warmer weather returns.
Most of us had walked the “other side” of the river so we experienced different views of places we already knew such as The Prospect of Whitby (or Devil’s Tavern), the Captain Kidd and, in Maz’s case, an area in which she worked.
Size MattersUnfortunately, the seal (Sophie?) I had seen on one of my planning trips did not appear but we did see cormorants and other birds - more than you might think. Apparently, although there are few nesting sites, there are a lot of visitors.
We took another break at The Brunel Museum which told the story of what was once hailed as “The 8th Wonder of the World”, the first tunnel under a navigable stretch of water. In the first 15 weeks after opening (in 1843) more than a million people paid 1 penny to walk through it to the other side (I didn’t find out whether that was single or return). This was at a time when the estimated population of London was 2 million. It took 18 years to build instead of the planned 3 and cost a lot more than expected – some things don’t change.
After looking round the museum we carried on to St. Mary’s Church where three of the owners of The Mayflower are buried as well as Prince Lee Boo, from the Pacific Island of Palau. He came here to learn about engineering but sadly died of smallpox after only 5 months.
Within the grounds of the churchyard was a playground. Some of us followed Amina’s lead in sneaking a go on the slide, big kids all. But, there were only two men with such courage and sense of fun. Can you guess who? Who was taking pictures?
Slides MatterOpposite the church is The Mayflower Pub, standing on the site where The Mayflower was kitted out before taking the Pilgrim Fathers to America in 1620, and where it was broken up at the end of its life. Nearby is the building that was St. Mary’s Free School, founded in 1613 to educate the sons of local seafarers.
The walk ended with a tour of King’s Stair Garden where we looked at the ruins of a 16th Century Manor House. Nearby was a bench on which a statue of Doctor Alfred Salter had sat before it was stolen. Ken had had his picture taken sat next to it on a previous EFOG walk. Finally, we looked at The Angel pub where Turner is said to have painted The Fighting Temeraire on her way to be dismantled. A brisk walk through Southwark Park brought us back to Canada Water.
Lessons. This was the first real-sized walk I have led and it took a lot of courage to attempt it, having so little sense of direction. I did learn some lessons, however, which others with similar concerns about leading might find useful. Next time I will lead “from the front” (I think this might have improved the pace of the walk). I think it would be good to have a named “rounder upper” to stop me worrying if everyone was still with us. It was essential to do the pre-walk planning trips but next time I will try harder to do this in a timely fashion so that I can have a pal to share this with me! Overall, it was fun though, and great to spend time with such a nice bunch of people. I would encourage others to give it a go – it’s nowhere near as scary as it might seem. Thanks to all those who helped and encouraged me.
Pam, February 2012
River Roding Walk, 5th February 2012
Snow had been forecast the previous day so it was no great surprise to see about 4 inches of the white stuff on the ground on Sunday morning. I looked forward to the prospect of the Roding valley path decked in snow. However, better I thought to check my emails in case the walk had been cancelled. No messages so off I went. The main roads were clear and presented no problems to a careful driver (like me!)
The Group pose in the snowOnly Jill and Julie were at the starting point when I arrived but others including Ian Greer our leader soon came. We were 10 in all. Some had been unable to get to the start because of the weather. After the snow the air was cool but not frosty. In about 15 minutes we were at the start of the Roding path off the A12 just south of the Redbridge roundabout. Ian led off at a good pace and soon everyone was comfortably warm within their layered clothing. We walked in single file and those near the back had a somewhat better surface to walk on.
We paused briefly at intervals to close up the column. Snow lay all around – deepish and even but not unduly crisp. The path was mainly level with only a few gentle inclines now and then. Probably the greatest difficulty we encountered was crossing the Southend Road at Charlie Brown’s roundabout. However the traffic was relatively light and we were able to cross when there was a gap in the flow.
We were now on the left bank of the river. After meandering around the Redbridge borough recycling unit we recrossed the river and made our way towards Woodford Bridge. Soon we were anticipating our stop at the Three Jolly Wheelers pub. After a very enjoyable pub lunch most of us took the soft option of taking the W14 bus back to Wanstead. Dolores decided to walk the return and Jill and Julie walked on to Woodford.
We don’t often get the opportunity to walk in snow and it was great to do so. Thanks to Ian for leading.
Ken Kennedy 7th February 2012
I-Spies at Station X - a visit to Bletchley Park
On Sunday 15th January, a group of special agents from EFOG held a rendezvous at the home of the World War II code-breakers, Bletchley Park. Arriving in separate cars so that we were not followed, the group assembled for a guided tour of this historic facility, to learn just what it was that people got up to there!
The most famous person at the park was, of course, Alan Turing, father of the modern computer, but even his fierce brain needed some help and along with fellow mathematician Gordon Welchman some 8,500 people were employed at the top secret facility to do just that. Not only did they break the German’s Enigma machine codes, but also those of Lorenz, an entirely separate communications network used by the German High Command and even more complex than the Enigma encryptions. The machines built to assist with the breaking of the codes – the Bombe and Colossus, built by the GPO - are shown at the museum of computing.
What was even more amazing was that this all remained a secret, throughout the whole war. Many of the workers moved on to GCHQ in Cheltenham after the war to work on the secrets of the cold war. It was not until the information was declassified in the mid 1970’s that the true role of Station X came to light (Station X by the way is so called because it was the tenth in a chain of wartime sites acquired by MI6 for its secret activities). Even now, we are not allowed to give you a photo to accompany this piece – it’s still secret! Saved for the nation by an army of volunteers and many of the people who used to work there the museum opened in 1994 and they are still finding out things about the code-breakers to this day.
Thanks to Dave for coming up with this one and well done to all the agents who braved the wintry weather for a very interesting day out.
Sue Ullersperger, 17th January 2012
Harwich weekend - 25/26th November
One of our newer members, Ian Greer, suggested a weekend at the 1912 Centre Group Hostel in Harwich, and eleven of us went to stay there on Friday 25th and Saturday 26th November, through to the Sunday.
The 1912 Hostel at HarwichThe 1912 Centre is a 26 bed hostel in the heart of the Harwich Heritage area, and is located in what used to be the Harwich Fire Station. As there were only eleven of us, and we had booked the whole hostel, we had a fair bit of room or rooms to choose from! It turned out to be - as Ian who had stayed there before had stated - a nice hostel with plenty of provisions including a good kitchen, eating area, lounge area and drying room. It had a good accessible wc/shower room for disabled visitors, too - though most of the sleeping accommodation was upstairs and I'm not sure what the downstairs sleeping accommodation was like for accessibility.
My experience of the weekend began with picking Fred up from his home at Hermon Hill, departing at 2.30pm on the Friday and proceeding up the M11 to join the M25 to pick up the A12. Fred and I arrived at the hostel at something like 6.30 - about two hours later than I'd anticipated. We found Val's car-load there already (that included Duncan and Ann - and I didn't mean to refer to them as a load). They had a much better experience with the roads, Val being sensible enough that when she saw the sign "A12 closed after A130" she continued up to the A120 and went across. I'm not so familiar with that, so stuck with the A12 and it's not-very-informative warning to find a diversion before the A130 - with immense tailbacks! Making a quick decision, I opted not to follow the signs and headed for Maldon, which although tortuous was moving. We arrived tired at Harwich and I a bit fed-up 'cos I thought I hadn't played it right - but we hadn't done too bad because Dave's car came in with Jinan and Ian aboard considerably after ours, having left the same time! Considerably later still, but having left later anyway, came Paul - another new member - with Fosie and Susan B.
So that's the travel - it was much easier getting home.
They're behind you!As we'd had a bit of a journey we opted to just get fish and chips in the evening, and eat them in-hostel. Saturday morning was bright and even sunny, and those of us that hadn't ventured out the evening before were perhaps surprised to see how close our accommodation was to the sea shore. The view beyond beached yachts and dinghys and a small sandy beach was of the Stour estuary, with Felixstowe on the other side. We made our own breakfasts in the well-equipped kitchen, then got into three of the cars for the short drive to the village of Little Oakley - the starting place for Duncan's planned walk. Off the road, our first footpath was undefined and across an oil-seed rape field. Things got better after that (apart from being chased-up by a herd of herded cattle), because the way was quite good underfoot, an easy enough terrain, just a little confusion as to the way ahead, and a varied landscape which encompassed villages, a windmill, oak trees growing in the Stour, Brent Geese and a nice big bell in a cage outside of Wrabness Church which most of us were happy enough to ring. This probably annoys the villagers, but we encountered no shotguns.
At Wrabness, Jinan and I caught a convenient train back to Dovercourt as the nearly six miles was enough for Jinan and for my ankle. We had a coffee and hot chocolate in a coffee and hot chocolate (and pastry)-type establishment, then walked down to the sea shore to promenade back to the hostel. That added another mile-plus to our walk, so we didn't do bad with the distance and got to see some of Harwich's sights on the way.
Our meals on Saturday evening was divided into two groups. One group chose the curry option, whilst the other was in a more general restaraunt. Must say that I enjoyed my more-general meal, even though once again I've blown my proposed vegetarianism. (I have just checked and it is a word)
Harwich PromenadeSunday morning was once again bright, but windy. We followed a town-trail this time, with Val navigating, albeit backwards and re-visiting the likes of the treadmill-crane and the low-lighthouse which some of us had seen one way or other the day or days before. It's quite an interesting town, is Harwich, with a considerable amount of old-style buildings, quaint streets and POI's. I quite liked the Ha'penny Pier area, with a magnificent Great Eastern hotel (now apartments) and two light vessels, including (although only temporarily) the Sandettie - which is theSandettie Light Vessel Automatic which you can hear about on the nightly coastal stations reports. The other was LV18 which had been lying deteriorating on a mooring off Harwich for 12 years prior to being restored and permanently berthed here. It is open to the public and includes exhibits of pirate radio, and indeed was used as the vessel Caroline in the film The Boat that Rocked. Of course, it wasn't open on that day. It was pretty cold in the strong wind, and those of us who had elected not to visit the Napoleonic defense redoubt decided that we'd return to the hostel and make ourselves some hot drinks before departing for home. We were shortly joined by the others.
It was a good couple of days, and the hostel a useful one for the Group to consider booking in the future.
Paul Ferris, 30th November 2011
A Wanstead walk on Sunday 6th November
The beginning of November saw Epping Forest becoming quite muddy in places, so Ian Greer's proposed cycle ride in the Forest was changed to a walk. Not only would this make it a bit easier on those taking part - and their bikes - but it would do just a tiny bit to help the strain on the forest tracks these days!
The walk started at the Group's "headquarters" the ROVSCO scout hut in Snaresbrook where we meet each Thursday. It wasn't a bad day - a bit overcast and with just a slight chill compared to the fairly-recent mildness - so it was a bit of a surprise that only six people joined Ian for his walk. A bit disappointing, too, as Ian is a new member and it is particularly important, I think, to show support for what new members in particular offer the Group.
Just a small group set out on the walkNevertheless, the walk proved a most enjoyable one, albeit over familiar territory to most of us, this offered the opportunity to not be under any stress to complete it before nightfall and the known reward of a good snack stop and facilities everywhere for a meal afterwards, if required!
We walked up Hollybush Hill, with Snaresbrook Crown Court to our right, passing some of the grander houses in the area - one of which has some magnificent palm-like plants in the front garden. This wasn't aimed at being a wildlife walk (which as most of you will know is a bit of an interest of mine), but we did stop to wonder at a very large plane tree in one of the front gardens with a particularly huge and gnarled lower trunk. A bit of research on returning home (with a photo to help) proved it to be not the usual London Plane but an Oriental Plane.
Crossing onto the edge of Leyton Flats, we had a look at the Leyton Stone - that from which Leytonstone derives its name. This a little-noticed milestone set at the junction of Hollybush Hill and New Wanstead. The main pillar is somewhat recent, and one can just make out the destination and distance text, indicating the route to Epping to the left and the route to Abridge to the right. 
Examining the Leyton StoneWhy the stone is important is that this newer marker is set upon a Roman milestone. By the side of the road on the grassy verge were a couple of examples of an attractive pink-flowered plant which neither Duncan or I could identify with certainty. It had something of the look of a mallow, and something of a geranium. Again, photographic evidence later proved it to be Musk Mallow, which is rare in these parts. We then traversed the Green Man roundabout system by means of the well-designed underpass, which gives plenty of room for pedestrians, cyclists and horses (and cattle - if there were any) to pass without conflict. The middle of this system is a rather attractive grassy and broomy area which attracts nesting birds in the Spring and is a colourful area for flowers in the summer. Indeed, there were a surprising number in flower, including Chicory and Tufted Vetch.
We reached Bush Wood beyond the Green Man and discussed the age of the wall which surrounds the burial grounds of the Society of Friends. The grounds used to be the practise area of an archery club, and now contains amongst the other headstones one to Elizabeth Fry, the Quaker prison reformer. She is not actually buried here, but the stone was moved from a somewhat insecure position in Barking.
Crossing from Bush Wood into Reservoir Wood, we could not help looking once again at the Repton Oak - a magnificent multi-stemmed oak planted in the style of Humphrey Repton who devised a method by which a tight bundle of sapling were planted together to give the pillared effect seen here. We also looked at the remnants of the east embankment of the reservoir from which the wood we'd passed through gets it's name. One of the many swans on the Shoulder of Mutton Pond was distinctly aggrieved at not getting any offerings from us after it had exited the pond for that reason, but our reason was that we were making for the kiosk in Wanstead park for refreshments.
The Grotto in Wanstead ParkThen we met Ken, coming the other way. He'd got to our meeting point at 10am rather than 11, whether because of all the talk of double summer-time or for whstever reason I don't know - but he'd done his part of the walk, so left us there.
As usual, the kiosk facility in the Park got us refreshed and underway again, together with Wren Group member Kathy, who'd come over to take photographs of a Wren Group practical work task nearby. We also saw our Chairman Jim at the kiosk - evidently having decided that the physical attractions of bramble-bashing were more relevant to his day than a walk in the park. Things do clash - and really, as the site that was being worked on is very much "my patch", I should have been there too.
We walked around the Ornamental Waters as far as the Grotto. This has been stabilised over the last year, so is now much more visible than it had been. Ian, being an Epping Forest Keeper, was able to let us in to the grounds of the Grotto - with appropriate warnings on care and safety - so we had a very privileged access to these historic remains. We then visited another significant building in Wanstead Park - the Temple.
Ian acting as grave-watcher This is open to the public at weekends, and at present has an exhibition on astronomy on its ground floor. Of course, being EFOG, we got as much pleasure out of playing with the old-style wooden toys, hats and hair-pieces as looking at anything historic or of interest.
But, making our way back towards Wanstead Station, we did look at the magnificient Georgian St. Mary's Church, where we saw the floor of the much older previous church in the grounds, as well as the watchman's shelter - a somewhat sentry-box-like structure from which a watchman would keep an eye out for grave-robbers. Our very final historic-interest object was right at the finish, by Wanstead Station, and is a pillar box. It is a very rare example of it's type, though it doesn't perhaps look much different from the norm. Have a look if you don't know it, and see if you can decide what is so unusual.
A few of us decide on a meal (decent roast for me) in the George, after - of course - we had thanked Ian for such a good and interesting 5.5 mile walk.
Paul Ferris, 8th November 2011