efog-blog
Mam Tor Saturday
Having reviewed Duncan's projected Saturday walk in the Peak District, I considered that the distance, terrain – and indeed the weather conditions (there had been considerable snow-fall days earlier) – added up to the likelihood of a walk that I might be able to manage – but with difficulty!
I opted instead to go on a 5-or-so mile walk that Ann had looked up, taking in Mam Tor. On setting out from Losehill Hall Youth Hostel, the weather was perfectly fine for walking – not quite summer but surely up to a Peak District Spring? It was an easy stroll through Castleton – pausing for some to pick up provisions – for the five of us that set out, and through a narrow lytchett onto fields and across stiles through sheep-farming country, wending gradually upwards towards the highest peak in the immediate district – Mam Tor.
Mam Tor is known as the Shivering Mountain, and we were to find out why a little later. Suffice it to say, it is really nothing to do with the cold. The name Mam Tor can be re-interpreted as Mother(s) Hill: mam as in mammary or breast-shaped. This is common moniker for certain shaped hills throughout the world. The Paps of Jura are good examples! One wonders if the Bronze Age settlement that crowns the summit was placed there for some reason associated with this – or perhaps it was just a nice place to live with a good view? Certainly any Bronze Age dwellers would have had quite a trek down from their penthouse to catch the bus to work each day.
We left the footpaths through a lovely little wooded area, complete, of course, with a busy stream supplemented by melt-water. Here was Odin's Mine – thought to be the oldest mine in Britain, and adjacent to it was the road up from Castleton. The walk-sheet suggested we stick to the road, which we did, although vehicles were prohibited from going any further. After five minutes or so of realising just how much difficulty a car would have negotiating a very uneven road-surface, we reached a gated fence across the road. The surface appeared rougher still beyond, although from where we were standing we could see a steady stream of people already ascending and descending the edge of the mountain to the summit. The apparent steepness of the ascent seemed to throw the rest of our small party, and a decision was made to turn back! I was a bit dismayed, for although steep, there was no indication that it was difficult!
I elected to go on myself – albeit feeling a bit let down – and started through the gate. Almost immediately the real effects of the land-slip that had closed this once busy pass became apparent, The road surface was corrugated and buckled and in some places had dropped many feet, or slipped off the edge altogether. Easy enough, however, to walk and even possibly to bike - but not to motor! The road regained its integrity in just a few hundred yards, and cars were parked alongside it enabling visits to the Blue John Mine or onto Mam Tor.
The way up was steep, but in places was even paved and stepped, so apart from sludging through a bit of snow was easy enough. From the top there is a 360 degree view and the conditions were clear enough to enjoy it. A paved track continued eastwards from the summit towards Hollins Cross, with the continuing stream of dogs and their walkers - many carrying huge rucksacks full of children - coming and going. At Hollins Cross a great network of paths converge, for this was a pass for people travelling to work in Edale from Castleton and the Hope Valley – daily! Those people must've had sure-grip feet, for I was very trepidatious making my way down a mix of paved, bouldered, streamed, muddied and gullied hill-side towards Castleton.
Eventually exiting onto a tarmacked farm track, the way to the hostel was relatively short. In fact because a convenient track led to the rear of the hostel, it should have saved the normal access to Losehill Hall which from the main road consists of a third-of-a-mile drive. I could see people in the hostel's car park, hear them chattering and could have shaken hands with them if I'd been inclined – but there was no way in! So – a long walk down the track to the side of the hostel grounds, a few yards along the road, then up the drive to the hostel! It added to the mileage, though - which overall was about 5.5 miles.
I certainly got back before the main group, and was fascinated by their stories of mini-disaster, loss of leader, loss of boots and flights of fancy. I noted that some did not opt to do a walk the following day, and considered that although I ended up walking alone, I had made a sensible choice.
Some thoughts on the weekend's walks
Perhaps we ought to consider people's abilities a bit more when proposing or starting out on a walk. From the feedback that I heard on the main group's experiences, it seemed to me that a number of people had taken on a task that was a bit beyond their capabilities. Either they'd not known what to expect, or perhaps they were a bit out of practice. We'd passed snow drifts whilst driving up to Castleton, and it was quite clear that there was still some accumulation of snow on the higher hills. The fact that the walk started from the Snake Pass - one of the more notorious bad-weather passes in the country - consisted of considerable stretches of high ground (say, 1500ft) and that the snow was melting thus obviously making the going in places wetter, perhaps should have sounded a warning. It is the responsibility of individuals to assess their own capabilities, and of walk-leaders to try to make it clear what the undertaking might be. This may not be so important on low-level walks in the summer, but mountain walks even in Spring are a different matter.
Even the walk the following day was a bit indeterminate. I'd been asked to co-lead it, and from my previous day's experience had a good idea what to expect. However, the walk was presented as "a mystery walk", which on reflection is perhaps a bit too trivial under the circumstances. As it turned out, the 5.5 mile walk on Sunday (from Castleton via Hollins Cross, Back Tor and Lose Hill to Hope village) was undertaken by fairly competent walkers, and was quite easy (even for me!)
Paul Ferris, 10th April 2012
Benfleet, Leigh-on-Sea and Southend - 17th March 2012
In the middle of March, where are you most likely to find the Efoggers out walking? At the seaside! We had been to the Essex coast with Ken the week before and decided we liked it so much we would go again, this time on a linear jaunt from Benfleet along the downs via Hadleigh Castle to the historic old fishing town of Leigh on Sea, and then along the coast to Southend. Unfortunately the weather wasn't quite as kind to Dolores, our leader for the day, as it was to Ken the previous week, but the rain held off, and what's a chilly wind to an Outdoor Group?!
Benfleet station we set off briskly up the hill, turning right into the fields above the estuary to follow the path along the Benfllet and Hadleigh Downs. Misty views of Canvey Island and the shipping allowed us to indulge in a game of 'which house would you like to live in', between clambering over stiles and waiting in lines to do so, as the path seemed popular with more than our group on the day. The ruins of Hadleigh Castle made an excellent view point (and was not on the top ten list of houses we would like to have) as the clouds lifted slightly on the way into Old Leigh.
After massing atThe fact that Leigh-on-Sea is still famous for its locally caught seafood was not wasted on some members of the party. The cockle sheds and Osborne's famous emporium proved a distraction, enough that lunch was strung out along the main cobbled street. An obliging chip shop allowed us to use their outside benches for lunch in spite of minimal purchases of chips, and maximum purchases of hot tea! After lunch, some of the group walked on through Westcliff to Southend itself, while those with other plans for the evening were able to break away early at the various stations en route.
The fun fair in Southend provided some last minute amusement - watching the riders screaming rather than joining in though - we Efoggers prefer to keep our feet on the ground! We did contemplate walking the pier, but decided we'd leave that for another time.
The total length of the walk for those that completed it from Benfleet Station to Southend Central Station was 7.5 miles
Sue U. March 2012
To the Gower and the Black Mountain – Friday 23rd to Sunday 25th March (plus two days)
The EFOG weekend at the Gower in South Wales appealed to me as I have links with the area in the form of long-time friends, and a one-time possibility of living there. That is apart from the fact that the Gower peninsula itself is a beautiful area! In order to use the opportunity to visit my friend, I extended the trip organised by Ken to include a day before the Group arrived, and to stay a day afterwards. This was also what Pam intended to do, so it made sense to travel with her by car, leaving early Thursday morning and returning the following Monday.
I'd told my friend that we'd arrive somewhere around mid-day, and we arrived in the small town of Brynamman on the slopes of the Black Mountain at 12 noon, so that wasn't too bad. We were met by Maria and her neighbour Lynne, and immediately treated to a warm Welsh welcome, in the form of a much appreciated meal – complete with a following of Welsh cakes. Pam went off to her B&B at a mysterious nearby place that none of us had heard of called Talarbongam. I had images of a stay in a house something like that in the film “The Lorelei" (Terry Johnson, 1990); if that doesn't mean anything, then I suggest you look it up; it's eerie. In fact Pam reported that it wasn't eerie at all – just Welsh. Whilst Pam “did her own thing” - which involved as suggested a trip to the top of the Black Mountain (my friend's house is on Heol Mynedd - Mountain Road), Maria and I caught up after a good few years of not seeing each other. Pam ended up in Carmarthen, and texted us that there was a free Cabaret Celtaidh on in the town that evening. I was keen, but Maria less so; she'd been to one of these before and found it a bit alien. She is English, and this was Welsh Wales.
On Saturday morning – early – Pam arrived for the drive to meet the rest of the Group for Ken's first walk, from Rhossilli to Port Eynon. This involved trying to get to Scurlage village, a few miles from Rhossilli, before the bus from Swansea with the Group on-board, so as to park the car for the return journey. Things had changed however, and a phone call from Val reported that they weren't going on the bus at all, but would be arriving earlier than expected having hired a taxi! This meant that the only way Pam and I could catch up with the Group was if they waited for us, which they duly did – in a nice tea-shop overlooking the great bay at Rhossilli.
Pam and I were to stay that night with the rest of the Group at the Premier Inn in North Swansea, so we made our way there to join them. It was quite a complex booking that Ken had administered, with two additional people sharing (as appropriate) with people already there. We'd been warned that changes in room occupation might entail a fee, so were slightly wary about announcing our arrival at reception. Even had climbing through windows been an option, that wouldn't have been possible due to the limited-opening bulit in to the ground floor rooms. So, we said we were part of Ken's group, and the farce began. The name's of the group hadn't been fully recorded by the receptionist the day before, we didn't know who we were sharing with, my phone had almost depleted power and Pam's couldn't get through to Ken. The receptionist was doing her best when I managed a desperate call to Val (always reliable as far as phones are concerned) saying “get down to reception quick – my phone's dying”. Ken arrived – having been sought by the marvellous receptionist, quickly followed by a bath-towel wrapped Val! Things were then sorted and we got our rooms.
Ken, it must be said, organised slightly complex travel and accommodation arrangements and two really good walks with great efficiency and concern for people's various walking abilities. Similarly, I've never stayed at a travel-style hotel before, but was impressed with the cleanliness and facilities in the rooms – and very much with the friendliness and helpfulness of all the staff at the Premier Inn and the associated Tay Barns restaurant.
Simply another one of EFOG's great variety of activities and aways.
Paul Ferris, March 2012
Gate to Gate Walk - Sat 31st March, 2012
Morning
At an ungodly hour for a Saturday, about a dozen rather bleary Efoggers assembled at Epping Station for the start of Jim and Sue’s epic Gate to Gate walk. The title "Gate to Gate" was chosen as the idea was to walk the length of Epping Forest from the Forest Gate pub at Ivy Chimneys to the Golden Fleece pub near Forest Gate.
The sky was cloudy but the rain held off, the cool air provided a good walking temperature, and the recent spell of dry weather meant a distinct lack of mud. We set off at a brisk pace, to be stalled early on in the walk by the presence of a small creature that Paul identified as a vole, turning round and round in circles in the footpath, perhaps in some distress.
Paul managed to move it off the path and out of the way of tramping boots, where the poor thing continued to circle, reminding me of myself trying to follow a map. I hope it recovered from the trauma. We continued on our way, navigating the forest traffic which included a group of cyclists and a riding school; a little later on we became aware of a rhythmical noise steadily approaching, which I assumed was another clatter of horses’ hooves. The 'hooves' turned out to be poles, as we were quickly overtaken by an enthusiastic group of pole walkers (as opposed to dancers) who were powering through the forest on a keep fit mission, and showing an admirable grasp of right and left as they coordinated their walking poles with their footsteps, assuring us they hadn't lanced anyone yet. After just under two hours of walking, we were glad to come to the first stopping point, ahead of schedule; the green tea hut at High Beech.Fortified with tea, coffee, bread pudding or other equally sturdy cakes, we strode on through the forest for another hour or so; scaling ups and downs of various gradients, none of them too steep excepting the final hill before we reached Butler’s Retreat, which, after a level stretch of footpath that had lulled us into a false sense of ease, came as rather a surprise, and made us feel we’d really earned our lunch stop. We were joined at the Butler’s Retreat by Lynne, Maz, Peter and Katie, and the weather was just warm enough for everyone to sit outside, enjoying meals, designer sandwiches or yet more cakes, before the group continued onwards and upwards, and Val and I left to go our separate ways after a very enjoyable morning’s walk.
Louise
Afternoon
At 1.10 sharp, after lunch - Val and Louise having left to catch the train from Chingford and Lynne, Maz and Peter plus the greyhound Katie having joined us - we left Butler's Retreat. It was still sunny but getting a bit cold. We had a pleasant walk through the forest arriving at Highams Park lake at about 2.10 where we stopped for a short drink and rest, then continued through the forest passing the back of Snaresbrook Crown Court to the Green Man roundabout. A couple of people caught the train from Leytonstone and the rest continued through a very pretty Browning Road, along Bush Wood and onto Wanstead Flats (where there are flats and it is very flat!). Loads of birds are said to like Wanstead Flats and they keep coming here; I'm not sure what the attraction is - must be the food. Apparently it is one of the best area for spotting migrating birds in the whole of London. Lots of men playing football who were spotting the ball and not the birds, but we did see a couple of guys with binoculars (I think they're called twitchers).
By this time my legs were aching as I haven't walked so far in a long time, but I speeded up a bit as I could see the Golden Fleece in the far distance - arrived at 4.15pm where we had a drink and some of the Group had dinner. It was an enjoyable walk and we were lucky with the weather.
Jill V.
Of the fifteen Group members who started or joined us on route, ten reached the Golden Fleece, and of these Clive, Fred, Jenny, Jill, Jim, Paul and Sue walked the whole 15 miles. The distances involved were:
Epping to Butlers Retreat 7.25 miles
Epping to Leytonstone 13 miles
Epping to the Golden Fleece 15 miles
April 2012
Bell-ringing at St. John’s Church, Epping
Seventeen EFOG members had a really interesting evening in the bell tower at St. John’s Church, Epping, on Monday, 26th March, 2012. The tower is 100 years old, and was built some years after the church, as an addition. I had arranged with Peter Milan, the bell-ringing captain, for us to visit, and I think the evening turned out to be even better than we had expected. Peter was explaining everything to us, and with his colleague, David, we were first shown how to bell-ring before we had a go ourselves. They gave us lighter bells, which was just as well, as when Peter demonstrated the largest bell which weighs over a ton, he actually had his feet off the floor to get it going, hanging on the bell-rope!
Bell-ringing is certainly much more complicated than I thought. When it is being done properly, the bell captain calls out numbers - not the numbers of the bells (they have 8 bells at St. John‘s), but the sequence numbers of the rounds. I couldn’t pretend to understand it, and you certainly need your wits about you! Being amateurs, we didn’t get to that stage, but we all had goes at ringing the bells with the help of Peter and David. It is quite tiring, and Peter and David were there with us, helping us to catch the bell-ropes by the sally - the furry bit on the rope!
Following on from that, we ascended the ladders to see the bells - not for those of a nervous disposition or with a fear of heights! The second ladder was completely vertical up the wall! As we had enjoyed a visit to the Whitechapel Bell Foundry last year, it was good to see to see the bells in situ, and Peter gave us some more information while we were perched on a narrow ledge, overlooking the bells. I think we were all grateful for the wooden railing along that bit! Peter had left one of the bells upside-down, which is where they are when they actually start to ring the bells, so we could see the positioning.
On the floor below the bells, is the complicated winding mechanism for the clock. There are three winding sections (for the time and the chimes), and they have to be wound every week to keep the clock going. Some of us had a go at the winding. As we were winding, we could see the huge weights moving up very slowly. That was hard work, and I am just relieved I don’t have to do it every week!
All in all, it was a really good evening, and we are very grateful to Peter and David for spending so much time with us, explaining it all. Peter and I live in Epping and we love to hear the bells ringing. I shall now listen with a great deal more admiration!
Maz. March, 2012.