Durham long weekend 11-14th September 2015

Nine EFOG members enjoyed a long weekend in Durham in mid-September, organised by Marian.

Some of us met at midday at Kings Cross station for the 3 hour rail journey, some went on other trains. Few of us were seated together as mostly we'd booked our tickets independently! As the train was 40 minutes late arriving, some of us may look forward to a rebate on the ticket price...

It didn't matter that we were late arriving; the journey to our accommodation was by a shuttle-bus that went directly to the Cathedral – about a ten minute journey – and our accommodation was in student's lodgings in St. Chad's College, which is situated in a mediaeval street immediately adjacent to the east end of the cathedral. In fact, those who had rooms at the front of their buildings looked out and across to the great east window. I had a back-facing room which looked out to the college gardens, and perhaps was mercifully saved the all-night bell chimes!

We took a stroll down a narrow lane adjacent to the college refectory, and down a series of stone stairs to the River Wear. The old town of Durham is situated on a great rocky peninsula which the river bounds on three sides. At its peak is the cathedral and castle. Friday evening was beginning to take off in the town as we ascended from the quietness and cannabis of the riverside onto a busy but traffic-free bridge, and as we ascended the old streets, through the market square and back to the cathedral and our lodgings, the girls were beginning to totter out – and in some cases looked as if they were about fall out.

Beamish0430cThe train from Kings CrossThe evening meal was at Bill's, amongst the many eating, drinking and clubbing places in the old town. Bill's, apparently, is an expanding chain, so watch out. There was a slight misunderstanding – as I understand it – with our assembly time for a meal and hence one of our group was waiting for us after we'd left. Usual problem on Group trips: trying to phone someone who is missing. There are only about four reliable keep-their-phone-on people in the whole group, by my reckoning. This is actually a point to consider when on group trips. Anyway, as the late-comer ordered a starter on arrival (which none of the rest of us had), together with a new waitress trying to serve our meals all together, and probably kitchen troubles to boot, resulted in a wait of an hour-and-a-half for our main meals. Or was it more? Whatever, we complained and got a considerable amount taken off our total bill. So that was alright.

We'd booked bed and breakfast, and the breakfast was provided from 8am in the refectory, which is a grand, high, chandeliered building set out with long tables for dining and a plentiful supply of cereals, fruit juices and fruit. Supplies of tea and coffee were brought to our tables, and the available breakfasts consisted of just about anything you'd expect.

We took a bus from the town to Beamish Open Air Museum on Saturday, which wasn't spoilt but might have been better if it hadn't been a bit drizzly. Beamish is well worth a visit – not just a reproduction early 20th Century town, but chapel, colliery-workers cottages, colliery, a fairground and a steam railway amongst the attractions and all served by old buses and a circular tram-system. The colliery was fascinating, listening to a guide who had actually worked there describing and demonstrating the intricacies of the system and a walk down into a coal-face to be shown and told about the working conditions. There is a fine fish and chip shop, cooked and served in traditional manner (although the newspaper for the cones were fakes!), and Jackie and I treated ourselves to a sugar-mouse each from the sweet-shop. Can't say that I really enjoyed it, but then I've aged a bit since I last ate one. Those of us that went to the dentist's nearby were intrigued – and maybe horrified – by what we learnt there! I suspect sugar-mice were more prevalent in those days.

We'd asked the friendly bus driver where the local Wetherspoons was - coincidentally right opposite the bus station, so that was where we had our evening meal. It was absolutely crowded in the main bar area, but remarkably we got our food order in quickly at the bar and even found a relatively out-of-the-way eating area. Unlike the previous evening, our meals arrived together and quickly.

Beamish0429cIt was a bit drizzly inside the observation car at BeamishSunday was Durham's Open-house day, and after a look round the modern museum building in the cathedral/castle square, we took advantage of the free-entry and non-guided access to the castle. This is now college buildings as Durham doesn't seem to be so threatened by the Scots these days. It – like the cathedral – has many Norman aspects including a wonderful Norman arch, so well preserved because it is an interior one. We then walked just to the edge of the town to visit Crook Hall and gardens. Crook Hall is a Grade 1 listed manor house, with a 14th Century hall. It is the family home of the Cassell family who have allowed visitors to roam freely through much of their home. The 4 acres of gardens are lovely, and maintained in the English country style. 

In the evening some of us went to a Thai restaurant whilst others went to Pizza Express. I chose the latter – not being so keen on Thai food and because Madeleine had a voucher for 40% of the total bill, including drinks. So that was alright.

We'd all booked different trains except Madeleine and I who travelled together together and Fred, who was in a different carriage. This gave some of us time on Monday morning to have a good look around and inside the cathedral before getting the shuttle-bus to the station. The cathedral really is magnificent and – to my mind – feels a lot more comfortable than an increasing number of such buildings where you are guided past ticket offices and security guards to ensure that everybody pays the “suggested” entry donations. Durham has boxes, of course, where you can donate as you wish. The staff in the cathedral seemed genuinely friendly and willing to talk about aspects of it. This seems to reflect just about all the people that we met there, a real friendliness and joy of chatting.

Our train journey, including the London stretch, was easy enough. A most enjoyable weekend and thanks to Marian for arranging it and the others for the company.

Paul Ferris, 16th September 2015

Marian, Dave, Fozi, Fred, Jackie, Ken, Madeleine, Paul, Phil