EFOG French Excursion - 22nd to 25th May 2010
Day One:
Saturday, 22nd May. After an uneventful ferry crossing we arrived in Calais around 1-00 p.m. local time and made our way through Bleriot-Plage and Sangatte to Cap Blanc-Nez. At least we thought we had arrived at the car park for Cap Blanc-Nez. In fact we were some 1,500 metres short of the cape. However, we set off on a path towards the cliff top in somewhat cool and grey weather. Along the way we passed several World War II bunkers and gun emplacements built by the Germans with slave labour. As we reached the cliff top the sun was beginning to break through and we could see the route ahead, but not yet a clear view of the English coast some 22 miles to the north-west. The countryside was not unlike that of the Sussex coastal downs - a bit up and down like a roller coaster.
The cape was marked by a large granite column. We descended quite a steep path almost to sea level where a mobile “friterie” selling chips, baguettes and drinks was a welcome sight as most of our group of eight had not eaten lunch on the ship. By now the sun was fully out and the day was warming up nicely. Our original intention was to walk the coastal path between Cap Blanc-Nez and Cap Nez-Gris but because we had started late and short of the planned starting point we decided our destination would be the little village of Wissant. We needed the cars in Wissant for our onward journey to Boulogne, so Peter G. and Ken made the return walk back to the car park whilst the main party pressed on towards Wissant.
On a most pleasant summer afternoon we rendez-vous’d in the centre of the village, both groups arriving at about the same time. There was a choice of cafes to have a drink and we settled for one with a cool terrace overlooking the river.
Thanks to some good navigational work by Val and Prue in the lead car, we arrived at the FUAJ hostel in Boulogne just before 6 p.m., having crossed the River Canche. After sorting our beds and a quick clean up we were off into town to find a restaurant for our evening meal.
Day Two:
Sunday, 23rd May. After a very satisfactory continental breakfast (included in the bed-night price of 19 euros) we decided to spend the day in and around the forest of Hardelot. After a brief stop at a Carrefour supermarket en route for picnic provisions we arrived at the little beach resort of Hardelot-Plage. The local tourist office was very helpful in providing us with a map showing a selection of walks in the area. We set off for the Chateau d’Hardelot as a starting point for the chosen walk. The weather was perfect and so was the countryside. The castle itself looked shiny bright and new in the brilliant sunshine. In fact it dated back to the 12th century. We walked around a large lake first. The path was well managed with duckboards across several marshy patches and delightfully shaded by mixed deciduous forest for most of the way. The chateau is currently being refurbished and developed as a tourist attraction. The work is unfinished so there was no charge to look around. We were fascinated by an exhibition of late 18th and early 19th century mainly English cartoons depicting the relationship between the French and the English at this crucial time in the history of the two countries. Next it was time for lunch and we fortunately found a tree shaded picnic table near the main car park. Perfect!
After lunch Maz and Val took a leisurely walk back round the lake, stopping at a hide to look at birds, whilst the rest of us embarked on a forest walk. Along the mainly shaded forest paths it was easy. However, on a section across open rather mountainous dunes and along an un-shaded coastal path it was more arduous in the hot summer sun. Finally we came to a road, more by luck than judgement, and were able to enlist local help on the best route back to the chateau to meet Maz and Val. On the way home we stopped at a café in Equihen-Plage for a welcome cold beer or coffee.
Sunday evening is not the best time of the week to eat out in France as many restaurants are closed or have a limited menu. However, we eventually found a place which was able to satisfy our varied needs. The meal was enlivened by the droll remarks of our waiter on the idiosyncrasies of the English when it comes to eating and drinking.
Day Three:
Monday, 24th May. It was another glorious summer day. We agreed to explore the Foret de Boulogne which lies on high ground a few miles to the east of the town. We stopped off at Carrefour to purchase our food for lunch and for our evening meal. We thought it would be fun to dine “al fresco” in the courtyard of the hostel that evening. The forest was dense, lush and very green. We meandered happily around for a while paying no particular attention to direction or distance. We encountered a number of streams with quite deep cut valleys. It was somewhat wet in places and muddy and slippery on the slopes. Eventually we found a flat more open area covered in wild flowers where we stopped for lunch. A few biting insects found us so we did not linger too long. Now to find our way back to our parking place! We came across a forest road where we were able to work out our position and make our way back.
As it was still relatively early in the day most of us were up for another walk. After discussions we made for the town of Desvres, a little further inland. From the Michelin guide we discovered that Desvres is a long established centre of pottery manufacture. We parked in the town square, although it was more of a triangle than a square, with an interesting chiming clock in the middle. In the local café there was a demand for more Leffe - a rather good Belgian beer.
Two members wished to explore the town and the remainder went by car to the start of the forest walk. A large indicator board clearly showed a number of possible walks. However, as had been the case the previous day, the way-marking was not consistent and we were at times unsure of our position. No matter we enjoyed the paths through the woods. This forest was a little more open with more to see as we walked along. We made quite a large loop, roughly following the southern perimeter of the forest, before eventually coming back to the road near where we had parked the cars.
That evening, our last night at the hostel, we had an excellent cold buffet with meats and cheeses bought from the local supermarket. There was plenty of bread and salad and an ample supply of red and white wine to complement the food. For sweet there was a choice of French apple tart or strawberry cheesecake. A game of pool finished the evening.
Day Four:
Tuesday, 25th May. We had set this day aside to explore the old walled town of Boulogne-sur-Mer. Straight after breakfast and vacating our rooms we set off up steep hills and entered the old town through the back gate. The weather was again pleasantly warm and sunny. First we walked the ramparts of the town walls. Along each section and at every corner there were the remains of interesting towers and store houses. On every side there were wonderful views over the town and the surrounding countryside. Inside the old town we had a choice to make - coffee first or the cathedral. Coffee won! Unfortunately, after coffee we arrived at the cathedral just as they were about to close for lunch! 12-00 to 14-00. This is France after all. We walked round the old streets before settling down for lunch at pavement tables. After visiting the cathedral, it was time to meander back down the hill to our waiting cars.
We had a trouble-free journey back to the port at Calais in good time for our evening trip to England, with lovely views of the white cliffs of Dover.
Ken. 11th June 2010
A footnote. Four days after arriving home Ken’s car developed a serious fault which had it occurred a few days earlier would have seriously dampened our spirits.